Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
